The History of the Chanel Classic Flap: How Coco Chanel Made a Bag For The “Modern Woman”

It was February 1955, when Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, had a lightbulb moment. Though not her first handbag design, it would push her brand to live among the top luxury houses, forever. Named after the month and year of the design, the 2.55 [now known as a “classic flap”] was a fashion breakthrough. One of Coco’s most notable quotes is; “In order to be irreplaceable, one must always be different.” And different it definitely was. Before the 50s, the only handbag options were to be carried in the hand, and this would be the first time a bag could be carried on the shoulder. Maybe it's important to think about the mechanics and significance of carrying a bag on your shoulder as opposed to your hands, it allowed wearers to be “hands-on” and empowered at a time of conformity and when women’s rights were very minimal. 

The bag was a success, with clients loving the practicality of the adjustable strap and back pocket. Chanel continued to be a success until Coco Chanel's death, at which point the majority stakeholder appointed Karl Lagerfeld as chief designer, and boy did he design. His inaugural year saw the redesign of the 2.55; with the replacement of the square lock to the iconic interlocking CC clasp on the front face of the bag, and the leather woven chain; this became the “Classic Flap”.

Lagerfeld’s dedication to the brand meant he still wanted to pay homage to its fruitful past, and so he re-introduced the original ‘2.55’ design in all its glory for its 50th anniversary in 2005. This version was then known as the 2.55 Reissue. Before 2008, the interlocking CC clasp was also adorned in 24K gold, something which makes ‘vintage’ Chanel bags from this era slightly more desirable than the new ones. In 2021, the classic flap was officially renamed the 11.12, in keeping with the numerical titling, after the internal “style code” at Chanel. Another historical difference is that both the 2.55 and the 11.12 [classic flap] come with a double flap; an exterior and interior flap closure, making the bag more structured and substantial, but also heavier. A “single flap” version does exist, meaning only an exterior flap is present. This was discontinued in 2014, but is still available on the secondary market. Lagerfeld also kept intact a zipper compartment on the inside edge. It's a bit of fashion folklore that Coco Chanel used to hide love letters from her various lovers here.

In the present day, the classic flap has lived in many styles, sizes, shapes, colours and leathers. The original design was crafted in soft and supple lambskin leather and later also in a more durable "caviar" leather - a grained calfskin. Traditionally the bag was only available in leather quilting however it now seasonally pops up in a fun chevron style quilting, and in just about every fabric and colour the imagination can stretch to. Denim, patent, tweed, PVC, raffia, sequins, crystals, and nylon are all fabrics you can find the classic flap in. It was also available in exotic leathers like snake, crocodile and alligator, however, Chanel announced the end of their use of exotic animal leathers in 2018.

As well as leathers, since the re-conception of the classic flap; it has been available in seven sizes, and the 2.55, four sizes. Some are only available preowned, or occasionally pop up in new Chanel collections, though the new mini styles tend to be extremely difficult to find at retail.

2.55 

Mini 15.5 × 20 × 6 cm

Medium 16 × 24 × 7.5 cm

Large 19.5 × 28 × 7.5 cm

Maxi 20 × 31.5 × 10 cm

11.12

Extra Mini 10 x 17 x 7.5 cm

Mini Square 13.5 × 17 × 8 cm

Mini Rectangle 12 x 20 x 6 cm

Small 14.5 × 23 × 6 cm

Medium 15.5 × 25.5 × 6.5 cm

Large 19.5 × 30 × 10 cm

Maxi 23 × 33 × 10 cm

There is a lot of speculation in the handbag community about the quality, or lack thereof, of the new season Chanel bags as the brand works to keep up with the growing demand. Chanel has claimed it takes “four to five years for each craftsperson on the site to learn how to perfectly master the techniques necessary for the manufacture”. If this is a concern - factors like the 24K gold hardware, better value for money, and guarantee of lasting quality - may make buying pre-owned the winning option.